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  Solarization looks at first like a big mistake. The two prints here are typical of solarization. To make a solarization we begin with a good, nicely focused, well exposed print that has been in the developer long enough to reach maximum density. This REQUIRES doing a good test strip. Leave the test strip in the developer for a FULL 60 seconds. The developed print is taken out of the developer and RE-exposed to plain white light. This can come from an enlarger or you can turn on the room lights. After being re-exposed the print is placed back into the developer. Just like the original print nothing will happen for about 10 seconds. Then, suddenly the print will begin to turn ALL black. But, just before it turns totally black it will solarize. The two prints shown here were both exposed the same way but one was left in the developer longer. Can you guess which one?
 Notice what Solarization does. It creates a small white area at the boarder between something that was black and something that was white. Solarization takes place at the EDGES of the objects in the photograph. Not all photographs look good with this technique.
Remember - the print MUST be completely developed before you give it the second blast of light. What about the quantity of light for the second exposure? If you give too little the print will just sit in the developer and little change will take place. If you give it too much it will turn dark almost instantly in the developer and will come up too quickly. Some photographers actually make a new test strip for this exposure - they cover the wet, developed photo with a piece of plastic at 2 second intervals as they expose the print to light from a second enlarger or from a table lamp in the dark room.
Try this - it is FUN.
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